Cam 自動岩械,也就是一般俗稱的Friends,應該算是岩械選擇上比較複雜的一部分,這裡選擇了幾組常見的牌子和型號來進行比較,這裡主要是比較一些客觀數據,另外還有一些主觀數據,例如製作品質、品牌喜好,這裡不多做比較。
主要要評價的項目有幾項
主要要評價的項目有幾項
- 強度 (Strength)
- 操作範圍下限 (Range Min)
- 操作範圍上限 (Range Max)
- 重量 (Weight)
- 單位操作範圍的重量 (unit weight)
Blackdiamond (BD) - Camalot X4 (X4)
DMM - New Dragon
Wildcountry - New Friends
Metolious - Ultarlight Master Cam
DMM - New Dragon
Wildcountry - New Friends
Metolious - Ultarlight Master Cam
Brand | size | strength(kN) | Range Min | Range Max | Range (mm) | weight (g) | unit weight (g/mm) |
BD - C4 | 3 | 14 | 50.7 | 87.9 | 37.2 | 201 | 5.4 |
BD - C4 | 2 | 14 | 37.2 | 64.9 | 27.7 | 155 | 5.6 |
BD - C4 | 4 | 14 | 66.0 | 114.7 | 48.7 | 289 | 5.9 |
BD - C4 | 1 | 14 | 30.2 | 52.1 | 21.9 | 136 | 6.2 |
BD - C4 | 0.75 | 14 | 23.9 | 41.2 | 17.3 | 119 | 6.9 |
BD - C4 | 0.5 | 12 | 19.6 | 33.5 | 13.9 | 99 | 7.1 |
BD - C4 | 0.4 | 10 | 15.5 | 26.7 | 11.2 | 83 | 7.4 |
BD - C4 | 0.3 | 8 | 13.8 | 23.4 | 9.6 | 75 | 7.8 |
BD - UL C4 | 3 | 12 | 50.7 | 87.9 | 37.2 | 167 | 4.5 |
BD - UL C4 | 2 | 12 | 37.2 | 64.9 | 27.7 | 126 | 4.5 |
BD - UL C4 | 1 | 12 | 30.2 | 52.1 | 21.9 | 101 | 4.6 |
BD - UL C4 | 4 | 12 | 66.0 | 114.7 | 48.7 | 225 | 4.6 |
BD - UL C4 | 0.75 | 10 | 23.9 | 41.2 | 17.3 | 89 | 5.1 |
BD - UL C4 | 0.5 | 10 | 19.6 | 33.5 | 13.9 | 74 | 5.3 |
BD - UL C4 | 0.4 | 8 | 15.5 | 26.7 | 11.2 | 61 | 5.4 |
BD - X4 | 0.75 | 9 | 24.0 | 41.2 | 17.2 | 112 | 6.5 |
BD - X4 | 0.5 | 9 | 19.8 | 33.7 | 13.9 | 91 | 6.5 |
BD - X4 | 0.4 | 9 | 15.5 | 26.6 | 11.1 | 82 | 7.4 |
BD - X4 | 0.2 | 6 | 9.9 | 16.5 | 6.6 | 54 | 8.2 |
BD - X4 | 0.3 | 8 | 12.4 | 21.2 | 8.8 | 75 | 8.5 |
BD - X4 | 0.1 | 5 | 8.4 | 13.8 | 5.4 | 51 | 9.4 |
DMM - Dragon | 4 | 14 | 38.0 | 64.0 | 26.0 | 154 | 5.9 |
DMM - Dragon | 5 | 14 | 50.0 | 85.0 | 35.0 | 208 | 5.9 |
DMM - Dragon | 3 | 14 | 29.0 | 50.0 | 21.0 | 128 | 6.1 |
DMM - Dragon | 6 | 14 | 68.0 | 114.0 | 46.0 | 299 | 6.5 |
DMM - Dragon | 2 | 14 | 24.0 | 41.0 | 17.0 | 117 | 6.9 |
DMM - Dragon | 1 | 14 | 20.0 | 33.0 | 13.0 | 103 | 7.9 |
DMM - Dragon | *00 | 10 | 13.0 | 21.0 | 8.0 | 75 | 9.4 |
DMM - Dragon | 0 | 14 | 16.0 | 25.0 | 9.0 | 85 | 9.4 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | 8 | 10 | 48.5 | 71.5 | 23.0 | 129 | 5.6 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | 6 | 10 | 32.5 | 48.0 | 15.5 | 96 | 6.2 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | 7 | 10 | 40.0 | 57.5 | 17.5 | 112 | 6.4 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | 5 | 10 | 28.0 | 39.5 | 11.5 | 85 | 7.4 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | 4 | 10 | 23.5 | 33.5 | 10.0 | 75 | 7.5 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | 2 | 10 | 15.5 | 22.5 | 7.0 | 55 | 7.9 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | 3 | 10 | 18.5 | 26.5 | 8.0 | 65 | 8.1 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | 0 | 5 | 10.0 | 15.0 | 5.0 | 45 | 9.0 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | 1 | 8 | 12.5 | 18.0 | 5.5 | 52 | 9.5 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | *00 | 5 | 8.5 | 12.0 | 3.5 | 45 | 12.9 |
WC-New Friends | 2 | 12 | 41.5 | 69.3 | 27.8 | 142 | 5.1 |
WC-New Friends | 3 | 12 | 52.7 | 88 | 35.3 | 192 | 5.4 |
WC-New Friends | 1 | 12 | 31.7 | 53.6 | 21.9 | 123 | 5.6 |
WC-New Friends | 4 | 12 | 66.8 | 112.1 | 45.3 | 260 | 5.7 |
WC-New Friends | 0.75 | 12 | 25.8 | 43 | 17.2 | 102 | 5.9 |
WC-New Friends | 0.5 | 12 | 20.6 | 34.5 | 13.9 | 88 | 6.3 |
強度 (Strength)
從今年開始,很多廠商已經將最大強度下降,由於大量的分析實驗,發現實際上在墜落的強度不需要這麼高。一般來說,強度會跟耐用性有正相關,但跟重量成負相關。
下表是依照強度來排序,Black Diamond 今年推出了輕量的C4系列,強度的部份就下降2kN
,而Wildcountry 也有這樣的趨勢,不過DMM還是強打高強度的部份。
Brand | size | strength(kN) | Range Min | Range Max | Range (mm) | weight | unit weight (g/mm) |
BD - C4 | 3 | 14 | 50.7 | 87.9 | 37.2 | 201 | 5.4 |
BD - C4 | 2 | 14 | 37.2 | 64.9 | 27.7 | 155 | 5.6 |
BD - C4 | 4 | 14 | 66.0 | 114.7 | 48.7 | 289 | 5.9 |
BD - C4 | 1 | 14 | 30.2 | 52.1 | 21.9 | 136 | 6.2 |
BD - C4 | 0.75 | 14 | 23.9 | 41.2 | 17.3 | 119 | 6.9 |
DMM - Dragon | 4 | 14 | 38.0 | 64.0 | 26.0 | 154 | 5.9 |
DMM - Dragon | 5 | 14 | 50.0 | 85.0 | 35.0 | 208 | 5.9 |
DMM - Dragon | 3 | 14 | 29.0 | 50.0 | 21.0 | 128 | 6.1 |
DMM - Dragon | 6 | 14 | 68.0 | 114.0 | 46.0 | 299 | 6.5 |
DMM - Dragon | 2 | 14 | 24.0 | 41.0 | 17.0 | 117 | 6.9 |
DMM - Dragon | 1 | 14 | 20.0 | 33.0 | 13.0 | 103 | 7.9 |
DMM - Dragon | 0 | 14 | 16.0 | 25.0 | 9.0 | 85 | 9.4 |
BD - C4 | 0.5 | 12 | 19.6 | 33.5 | 13.9 | 99 | 7.1 |
BD - UL C4 | 3 | 12 | 50.7 | 87.9 | 37.2 | 167 | 4.5 |
BD - UL C4 | 2 | 12 | 37.2 | 64.9 | 27.7 | 126 | 4.5 |
BD - UL C4 | 1 | 12 | 30.2 | 52.1 | 21.9 | 101 | 4.6 |
BD - UL C4 | 4 | 12 | 66.0 | 114.7 | 48.7 | 225 | 4.6 |
WC-New Friends | 2 | 12 | 41.5 | 69.3 | 27.8 | 142 | 5.1 |
WC-New Friends | 3 | 12 | 52.7 | 88 | 35.3 | 192 | 5.4 |
WC-New Friends | 1 | 12 | 31.7 | 53.6 | 21.9 | 123 | 5.6 |
WC-New Friends | 4 | 12 | 66.8 | 112.1 | 45.3 | 260 | 5.7 |
WC-New Friends | 0.75 | 12 | 25.8 | 43 | 17.2 | 102 | 5.9 |
WC-New Friends | 0.5 | 12 | 20.6 | 34.5 | 13.9 | 88 | 6.3 |
BD - C4 | 0.4 | 10 | 15.5 | 26.7 | 11.2 | 83 | 7.4 |
BD - UL C4 | 0.75 | 10 | 23.9 | 41.2 | 17.3 | 89 | 5.1 |
BD - UL C4 | 0.5 | 10 | 19.6 | 33.5 | 13.9 | 74 | 5.3 |
DMM - Dragon | *00 | 10 | 13.0 | 21.0 | 8.0 | 75 | 9.4 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | 8 | 10 | 48.5 | 71.5 | 23.0 | 129 | 5.6 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | 6 | 10 | 32.5 | 48.0 | 15.5 | 96 | 6.2 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | 7 | 10 | 40.0 | 57.5 | 17.5 | 112 | 6.4 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | 5 | 10 | 28.0 | 39.5 | 11.5 | 85 | 7.4 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | 4 | 10 | 23.5 | 33.5 | 10.0 | 75 | 7.5 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | 2 | 10 | 15.5 | 22.5 | 7.0 | 55 | 7.9 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | 3 | 10 | 18.5 | 26.5 | 8.0 | 65 | 8.1 |
BD - X4 | 0.75 | 9 | 24.0 | 41.2 | 17.2 | 112 | 6.5 |
BD - X4 | 0.5 | 9 | 19.8 | 33.7 | 13.9 | 91 | 6.5 |
BD - X4 | 0.4 | 9 | 15.5 | 26.6 | 11.1 | 82 | 7.4 |
BD - C4 | 0.3 | 8 | 13.8 | 23.4 | 9.6 | 75 | 7.8 |
BD - UL C4 | 0.4 | 8 | 15.5 | 26.7 | 11.2 | 61 | 5.4 |
BD - X4 | 0.3 | 8 | 12.4 | 21.2 | 8.8 | 75 | 8.5 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | 1 | 8 | 12.5 | 18.0 | 5.5 | 52 | 9.5 |
BD - X4 | 0.2 | 6 | 9.9 | 16.5 | 6.6 | 54 | 8.2 |
BD - X4 | 0.1 | 5 | 8.4 | 13.8 | 5.4 | 51 | 9.4 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | 0 | 5 | 10.0 | 15.0 | 5.0 | 45 | 9.0 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | *00 | 5 | 8.5 | 12.0 | 3.5 | 45 | 12.9 |
操作範圍下限 (Range Min.)
這部份主要是針對小的Cam來做比較,越小的排序會在前面,可以明顯發現,BD - X4 和 Metolious - Master Cam 都有針對這部份做開發,要做到比較小的操作下限,必須要採用單軸結構,因此即使是以雙軸為主打的BD,在小範圍的部份也需要改成使用單軸的架構。
Brand | size | strength(kN) | Range Min | Range Max | Range (mm) | weight | unit weight (g/mm) |
BD - X4 | 0.1 | 5 | 8.4 | 13.8 | 5.4 | 51 | 9.4 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | *00 | 5 | 8.5 | 12.0 | 3.5 | 45 | 12.9 |
BD - X4 | 0.2 | 6 | 9.9 | 16.5 | 6.6 | 54 | 8.2 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | 0 | 5 | 10.0 | 15.0 | 5.0 | 45 | 9.0 |
BD - X4 | 0.3 | 8 | 12.4 | 21.2 | 8.8 | 75 | 8.5 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | 1 | 8 | 12.5 | 18.0 | 5.5 | 52 | 9.5 |
DMM - Dragon | *00 | 10 | 13.0 | 21.0 | 8.0 | 75 | 9.4 |
BD - C4 | 0.3 | 8 | 13.8 | 23.4 | 9.6 | 75 | 7.8 |
BD - C4 | 0.4 | 10 | 15.5 | 26.7 | 11.2 | 83 | 7.4 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | 2 | 10 | 15.5 | 22.5 | 7.0 | 55 | 7.9 |
BD - X4 | 0.4 | 9 | 15.5 | 26.6 | 11.1 | 82 | 7.4 |
BD - UL C4 | 0.4 | 8 | 15.5 | 26.7 | 11.2 | 61 | 5.4 |
DMM - Dragon | 0 | 14 | 16.0 | 25.0 | 9.0 | 85 | 9.4 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | 3 | 10 | 18.5 | 26.5 | 8.0 | 65 | 8.1 |
BD - C4 | 0.5 | 12 | 19.6 | 33.5 | 13.9 | 99 | 7.1 |
BD - UL C4 | 0.5 | 10 | 19.6 | 33.5 | 13.9 | 74 | 5.3 |
BD - X4 | 0.5 | 9 | 19.8 | 33.7 | 13.9 | 91 | 6.5 |
DMM - Dragon | 1 | 14 | 20.0 | 33.0 | 13.0 | 103 | 7.9 |
WC-New Friends | 0.5 | 12 | 20.6 | 34.5 | 13.9 | 88 | 6.3 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | 4 | 10 | 23.5 | 33.5 | 10.0 | 75 | 7.5 |
BD - C4 | 0.75 | 14 | 23.9 | 41.2 | 17.3 | 119 | 6.9 |
BD - UL C4 | 0.75 | 10 | 23.9 | 41.2 | 17.3 | 89 | 5.1 |
DMM - Dragon | 2 | 14 | 24.0 | 41.0 | 17.0 | 117 | 6.9 |
BD - X4 | 0.75 | 9 | 24.0 | 41.2 | 17.2 | 112 | 6.5 |
WC-New Friends | 0.75 | 12 | 25.8 | 43 | 17.2 | 102 | 5.9 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | 5 | 10 | 28.0 | 39.5 | 11.5 | 85 | 7.4 |
DMM - Dragon | 3 | 14 | 29.0 | 50.0 | 21.0 | 128 | 6.1 |
BD - C4 | 1 | 14 | 30.2 | 52.1 | 21.9 | 136 | 6.2 |
BD - UL C4 | 1 | 12 | 30.2 | 52.1 | 21.9 | 101 | 4.6 |
WC-New Friends | 1 | 12 | 31.7 | 53.6 | 21.9 | 123 | 5.6 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | 6 | 10 | 32.5 | 48.0 | 15.5 | 96 | 6.2 |
BD - C4 | 2 | 14 | 37.2 | 64.9 | 27.7 | 155 | 5.6 |
BD - UL C4 | 2 | 12 | 37.2 | 64.9 | 27.7 | 126 | 4.5 |
DMM - Dragon | 4 | 14 | 38.0 | 64.0 | 26.0 | 154 | 5.9 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | 7 | 10 | 40.0 | 57.5 | 17.5 | 112 | 6.4 |
WC-New Friends | 2 | 12 | 41.5 | 69.3 | 27.8 | 142 | 5.1 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | 8 | 10 | 48.5 | 71.5 | 23.0 | 129 | 5.6 |
DMM - Dragon | 5 | 14 | 50.0 | 85.0 | 35.0 | 208 | 5.9 |
BD - C4 | 3 | 14 | 50.7 | 87.9 | 37.2 | 201 | 5.4 |
BD - UL C4 | 3 | 12 | 50.7 | 87.9 | 37.2 | 167 | 4.5 |
WC-New Friends | 3 | 12 | 52.7 | 88 | 35.3 | 192 | 5.4 |
BD - C4 | 4 | 14 | 66.0 | 114.7 | 48.7 | 289 | 5.9 |
BD - UL C4 | 4 | 12 | 66.0 | 114.7 | 48.7 | 225 | 4.6 |
WC-New Friends | 4 | 12 | 66.8 | 112.1 | 45.3 | 260 | 5.7 |
DMM - Dragon | 6 | 14 | 68.0 | 114.0 | 46.0 | 299 | 6.5 |
操作範圍上限 (Range Max.)
這個部分要比較的就是比較大支的型號,這裡比較的其實應該是重量的部份,在大操作上限的型號,對整體重量的影響相當大,以BD-C4與BD-UL C4同一個大小重量就差了64g,整整就差了一支小號的Cam!
Brand | size | strength(kN) | Range Min | Range Max | Range (mm) | weight | unit weight (g/mm) |
BD - C4 | 4 | 14 | 66.0 | 114.7 | 48.7 | 289 | 5.9 |
BD - UL C4 | 4 | 12 | 66.0 | 114.7 | 48.7 | 225 | 4.6 |
DMM - Dragon | 6 | 14 | 68.0 | 114.0 | 46.0 | 299 | 6.5 |
WC-New Friends | 4 | 12 | 66.8 | 112.1 | 45.3 | 260 | 5.7 |
WC-New Friends | 3 | 12 | 52.7 | 88 | 35.3 | 192 | 5.4 |
BD - C4 | 3 | 14 | 50.7 | 87.9 | 37.2 | 201 | 5.4 |
BD - UL C4 | 3 | 12 | 50.7 | 87.9 | 37.2 | 167 | 4.5 |
DMM - Dragon | 5 | 14 | 50.0 | 85.0 | 35.0 | 208 | 5.9 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | 8 | 10 | 48.5 | 71.5 | 23.0 | 129 | 5.6 |
WC-New Friends | 2 | 12 | 41.5 | 69.3 | 27.8 | 142 | 5.1 |
BD - C4 | 2 | 14 | 37.2 | 64.9 | 27.7 | 155 | 5.6 |
BD - UL C4 | 2 | 12 | 37.2 | 64.9 | 27.7 | 126 | 4.5 |
DMM - Dragon | 4 | 14 | 38.0 | 64.0 | 26.0 | 154 | 5.9 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | 7 | 10 | 40.0 | 57.5 | 17.5 | 112 | 6.4 |
WC-New Friends | 1 | 12 | 31.7 | 53.6 | 21.9 | 123 | 5.6 |
BD - C4 | 1 | 14 | 30.2 | 52.1 | 21.9 | 136 | 6.2 |
BD - UL C4 | 1 | 12 | 30.2 | 52.1 | 21.9 | 101 | 4.6 |
DMM - Dragon | 3 | 14 | 29.0 | 50.0 | 21.0 | 128 | 6.1 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | 6 | 10 | 32.5 | 48.0 | 15.5 | 96 | 6.2 |
WC-New Friends | 0.75 | 12 | 25.8 | 43 | 17.2 | 102 | 5.9 |
BD - C4 | 0.75 | 14 | 23.9 | 41.2 | 17.3 | 119 | 6.9 |
BD - UL C4 | 0.75 | 10 | 23.9 | 41.2 | 17.3 | 89 | 5.1 |
BD - X4 | 0.75 | 9 | 24.0 | 41.2 | 17.2 | 112 | 6.5 |
DMM - Dragon | 2 | 14 | 24.0 | 41.0 | 17.0 | 117 | 6.9 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | 5 | 10 | 28.0 | 39.5 | 11.5 | 85 | 7.4 |
WC-New Friends | 0.5 | 12 | 20.6 | 34.5 | 13.9 | 88 | 6.3 |
BD - X4 | 0.5 | 9 | 19.8 | 33.7 | 13.9 | 91 | 6.5 |
BD - C4 | 0.5 | 12 | 19.6 | 33.5 | 13.9 | 99 | 7.1 |
BD - UL C4 | 0.5 | 10 | 19.6 | 33.5 | 13.9 | 74 | 5.3 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | 4 | 10 | 23.5 | 33.5 | 10.0 | 75 | 7.5 |
DMM - Dragon | 1 | 14 | 20.0 | 33.0 | 13.0 | 103 | 7.9 |
BD - C4 | 0.4 | 10 | 15.5 | 26.7 | 11.2 | 83 | 7.4 |
BD - UL C4 | 0.4 | 8 | 15.5 | 26.7 | 11.2 | 61 | 5.4 |
BD - X4 | 0.4 | 9 | 15.5 | 26.6 | 11.1 | 82 | 7.4 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | 3 | 10 | 18.5 | 26.5 | 8.0 | 65 | 8.1 |
DMM - Dragon | 0 | 14 | 16.0 | 25.0 | 9.0 | 85 | 9.4 |
BD - C4 | 0.3 | 8 | 13.8 | 23.4 | 9.6 | 75 | 7.8 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | 2 | 10 | 15.5 | 22.5 | 7.0 | 55 | 7.9 |
BD - X4 | 0.3 | 8 | 12.4 | 21.2 | 8.8 | 75 | 8.5 |
DMM - Dragon | *00 | 10 | 13.0 | 21.0 | 8.0 | 75 | 9.4 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | 1 | 8 | 12.5 | 18.0 | 5.5 | 52 | 9.5 |
BD - X4 | 0.2 | 6 | 9.9 | 16.5 | 6.6 | 54 | 8.2 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | 0 | 5 | 10.0 | 15.0 | 5.0 | 45 | 9.0 |
BD - X4 | 0.1 | 5 | 8.4 | 13.8 | 5.4 | 51 | 9.4 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | *00 | 5 | 8.5 | 12.0 | 3.5 | 45 | 12.9 |
重量(Weight)
重量是今年新設計上很重要的指標,各家都在減重上做了很大的努力,目前看來BD的UL - C4 在重量上有很大的領先。雖然在單純本身的重量上,DMM和WC較占下風,但今年有伸長織帶的設計,可以直接少帶一條繩環或是快扣,如果是將這一部分考慮進去,可延長織帶的型號,在整體重量上就有相當的競爭性。
另一個在重量上作手腳的就是將鋼纜的部分換成Dyneema,雖然說Dyneema 在強度上甚至是比鋼纜來的高,但在耐用性上,即使原廠也會表示沒有鋼纜來的耐用,不過在重量及柔軟性上,有相當大的優勢。
重量是今年新設計上很重要的指標,各家都在減重上做了很大的努力,目前看來BD的UL - C4 在重量上有很大的領先。雖然在單純本身的重量上,DMM和WC較占下風,但今年有伸長織帶的設計,可以直接少帶一條繩環或是快扣,如果是將這一部分考慮進去,可延長織帶的型號,在整體重量上就有相當的競爭性。
另一個在重量上作手腳的就是將鋼纜的部分換成Dyneema,雖然說Dyneema 在強度上甚至是比鋼纜來的高,但在耐用性上,即使原廠也會表示沒有鋼纜來的耐用,不過在重量及柔軟性上,有相當大的優勢。
Brand | size | strength(kN) | Range Min | Range Max | Range (mm) | weight | unit weight (g/mm) |
DMM - Dragon | 6 | 14 | 68.0 | 114.0 | 46.0 | 299 | 6.5 |
BD - C4 | 4 | 14 | 66.0 | 114.7 | 48.7 | 289 | 5.9 |
WC-New Friends | 4 | 12 | 66.8 | 112.1 | 45.3 | 260 | 5.7 |
BD - UL C4 | 4 | 12 | 66.0 | 114.7 | 48.7 | 225 | 4.6 |
DMM - Dragon | 5 | 14 | 50.0 | 85.0 | 35.0 | 208 | 5.9 |
BD - C4 | 3 | 14 | 50.7 | 87.9 | 37.2 | 201 | 5.4 |
WC-New Friends | 3 | 12 | 52.7 | 88 | 35.3 | 192 | 5.4 |
BD - UL C4 | 3 | 12 | 50.7 | 87.9 | 37.2 | 167 | 4.5 |
BD - C4 | 2 | 14 | 37.2 | 64.9 | 27.7 | 155 | 5.6 |
DMM - Dragon | 4 | 14 | 38.0 | 64.0 | 26.0 | 154 | 5.9 |
WC-New Friends | 2 | 12 | 41.5 | 69.3 | 27.8 | 142 | 5.1 |
BD - C4 | 1 | 14 | 30.2 | 52.1 | 21.9 | 136 | 6.2 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | 8 | 10 | 48.5 | 71.5 | 23.0 | 129 | 5.6 |
DMM - Dragon | 3 | 14 | 29.0 | 50.0 | 21.0 | 128 | 6.1 |
BD - UL C4 | 2 | 12 | 37.2 | 64.9 | 27.7 | 126 | 4.5 |
WC-New Friends | 1 | 12 | 31.7 | 53.6 | 21.9 | 123 | 5.6 |
BD - C4 | 0.75 | 14 | 23.9 | 41.2 | 17.3 | 119 | 6.9 |
DMM - Dragon | 2 | 14 | 24.0 | 41.0 | 17.0 | 117 | 6.9 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | 7 | 10 | 40.0 | 57.5 | 17.5 | 112 | 6.4 |
BD - X4 | 0.75 | 9 | 24.0 | 41.2 | 17.2 | 112 | 6.5 |
DMM - Dragon | 1 | 14 | 20.0 | 33.0 | 13.0 | 103 | 7.9 |
WC-New Friends | 0.75 | 12 | 25.8 | 43 | 17.2 | 102 | 5.9 |
BD - UL C4 | 1 | 12 | 30.2 | 52.1 | 21.9 | 101 | 4.6 |
BD - C4 | 0.5 | 12 | 19.6 | 33.5 | 13.9 | 99 | 7.1 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | 6 | 10 | 32.5 | 48.0 | 15.5 | 96 | 6.2 |
BD - X4 | 0.5 | 9 | 19.8 | 33.7 | 13.9 | 91 | 6.5 |
BD - UL C4 | 0.75 | 10 | 23.9 | 41.2 | 17.3 | 89 | 5.1 |
WC-New Friends | 0.5 | 12 | 20.6 | 34.5 | 13.9 | 88 | 6.3 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | 5 | 10 | 28.0 | 39.5 | 11.5 | 85 | 7.4 |
DMM - Dragon | 0 | 14 | 16.0 | 25.0 | 9.0 | 85 | 9.4 |
BD - C4 | 0.4 | 10 | 15.5 | 26.7 | 11.2 | 83 | 7.4 |
BD - X4 | 0.4 | 9 | 15.5 | 26.6 | 11.1 | 82 | 7.4 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | 4 | 10 | 23.5 | 33.5 | 10.0 | 75 | 7.5 |
BD - C4 | 0.3 | 8 | 13.8 | 23.4 | 9.6 | 75 | 7.8 |
BD - X4 | 0.3 | 8 | 12.4 | 21.2 | 8.8 | 75 | 8.5 |
DMM - Dragon | *00 | 10 | 13.0 | 21.0 | 8.0 | 75 | 9.4 |
BD - UL C4 | 0.5 | 10 | 19.6 | 33.5 | 13.9 | 74 | 5.3 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | 3 | 10 | 18.5 | 26.5 | 8.0 | 65 | 8.1 |
BD - UL C4 | 0.4 | 8 | 15.5 | 26.7 | 11.2 | 61 | 5.4 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | 2 | 10 | 15.5 | 22.5 | 7.0 | 55 | 7.9 |
BD - X4 | 0.2 | 6 | 9.9 | 16.5 | 6.6 | 54 | 8.2 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | 1 | 8 | 12.5 | 18.0 | 5.5 | 52 | 9.5 |
BD - X4 | 0.1 | 5 | 8.4 | 13.8 | 5.4 | 51 | 9.4 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | 0 | 5 | 10.0 | 15.0 | 5.0 | 45 | 9.0 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | *00 | 5 | 8.5 | 12.0 | 3.5 | 45 | 12.9 |
單位操作範圍的重量 (unit weight)
這是我用來判斷的指標,也就是操作一樣的範圍,需要多少的重量,這個部分是整體效率的差異,但事實上對攀岩其實還好,但對技術登山是很重要的指標。這裡的數值越小越好,也就每mm操作範圍,所需要的重量越低。
由表中排序可以看出來BD-UL C4 完勝!相較起來DMM在這方面就比較吃虧。但事實上,這樣的結論是有點不公平的,因為DMM有延伸織帶的設計,在最佳的條件下可以少帶一支快扣,如果以這樣來說的話,DMM 和 Wildcountry 在整體重量上,還是有一定的優勢。
Brand | size | strength(kN) | Range Min | Range Max | Range (mm) | weight | unit weight (g/mm) |
BD - UL C4 | 3 | 12 | 50.7 | 87.9 | 37.2 | 167 | 4.5 |
BD - UL C4 | 2 | 12 | 37.2 | 64.9 | 27.7 | 126 | 4.5 |
BD - UL C4 | 1 | 12 | 30.2 | 52.1 | 21.9 | 101 | 4.6 |
BD - UL C4 | 4 | 12 | 66.0 | 114.7 | 48.7 | 225 | 4.6 |
WC-New Friends | 2 | 12 | 41.5 | 69.3 | 27.8 | 142 | 5.1 |
BD - UL C4 | 0.75 | 10 | 23.9 | 41.2 | 17.3 | 89 | 5.1 |
BD - UL C4 | 0.5 | 10 | 19.6 | 33.5 | 13.9 | 74 | 5.3 |
BD - C4 | 3 | 14 | 50.7 | 87.9 | 37.2 | 201 | 5.4 |
WC-New Friends | 3 | 12 | 52.7 | 88 | 35.3 | 192 | 5.4 |
BD - UL C4 | 0.4 | 8 | 15.5 | 26.7 | 11.2 | 61 | 5.4 |
BD - C4 | 2 | 14 | 37.2 | 64.9 | 27.7 | 155 | 5.6 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | 8 | 10 | 48.5 | 71.5 | 23.0 | 129 | 5.6 |
WC-New Friends | 1 | 12 | 31.7 | 53.6 | 21.9 | 123 | 5.6 |
WC-New Friends | 4 | 12 | 66.8 | 112.1 | 45.3 | 260 | 5.7 |
DMM - Dragon | 4 | 14 | 38.0 | 64.0 | 26.0 | 154 | 5.9 |
WC-New Friends | 0.75 | 12 | 25.8 | 43 | 17.2 | 102 | 5.9 |
BD - C4 | 4 | 14 | 66.0 | 114.7 | 48.7 | 289 | 5.9 |
DMM - Dragon | 5 | 14 | 50.0 | 85.0 | 35.0 | 208 | 5.9 |
DMM - Dragon | 3 | 14 | 29.0 | 50.0 | 21.0 | 128 | 6.1 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | 6 | 10 | 32.5 | 48.0 | 15.5 | 96 | 6.2 |
BD - C4 | 1 | 14 | 30.2 | 52.1 | 21.9 | 136 | 6.2 |
WC-New Friends | 0.5 | 12 | 20.6 | 34.5 | 13.9 | 88 | 6.3 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | 7 | 10 | 40.0 | 57.5 | 17.5 | 112 | 6.4 |
DMM - Dragon | 6 | 14 | 68.0 | 114.0 | 46.0 | 299 | 6.5 |
BD - X4 | 0.75 | 9 | 24.0 | 41.2 | 17.2 | 112 | 6.5 |
BD - X4 | 0.5 | 9 | 19.8 | 33.7 | 13.9 | 91 | 6.5 |
BD - C4 | 0.75 | 14 | 23.9 | 41.2 | 17.3 | 119 | 6.9 |
DMM - Dragon | 2 | 14 | 24.0 | 41.0 | 17.0 | 117 | 6.9 |
BD - C4 | 0.5 | 12 | 19.6 | 33.5 | 13.9 | 99 | 7.1 |
BD - X4 | 0.4 | 9 | 15.5 | 26.6 | 11.1 | 82 | 7.4 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | 5 | 10 | 28.0 | 39.5 | 11.5 | 85 | 7.4 |
BD - C4 | 0.4 | 10 | 15.5 | 26.7 | 11.2 | 83 | 7.4 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | 4 | 10 | 23.5 | 33.5 | 10.0 | 75 | 7.5 |
BD - C4 | 0.3 | 8 | 13.8 | 23.4 | 9.6 | 75 | 7.8 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | 2 | 10 | 15.5 | 22.5 | 7.0 | 55 | 7.9 |
DMM - Dragon | 1 | 14 | 20.0 | 33.0 | 13.0 | 103 | 7.9 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | 3 | 10 | 18.5 | 26.5 | 8.0 | 65 | 8.1 |
BD - X4 | 0.2 | 6 | 9.9 | 16.5 | 6.6 | 54 | 8.2 |
BD - X4 | 0.3 | 8 | 12.4 | 21.2 | 8.8 | 75 | 8.5 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | 0 | 5 | 10.0 | 15.0 | 5.0 | 45 | 9.0 |
DMM - Dragon | *00 | 10 | 13.0 | 21.0 | 8.0 | 75 | 9.4 |
DMM - Dragon | 0 | 14 | 16.0 | 25.0 | 9.0 | 85 | 9.4 |
BD - X4 | 0.1 | 5 | 8.4 | 13.8 | 5.4 | 51 | 9.4 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | 1 | 8 | 12.5 | 18.0 | 5.5 | 52 | 9.5 |
Metolious- UL Master Cam | *00 | 5 | 8.5 | 12.0 | 3.5 | 45 | 12.9 |
總結 (Summary)
在Cam的選擇上,各家都有著重的項目,各型號的優缺點大致分析如下:
Blackdiamond - Camalots (C4)
目前最普及的型號之一,價錢與型能比相當高,與同期的產品相比,雙軸的設計使得可使用的岩隙範圍較大,缺點就是重量較重,而且沒有延伸扁帶的功能。
Blackdiamond - Camalots X4 (X4)
就是針對小岩隙所出的產品,與 Metolious 的 Ultra Light Master Cam 相當,但重量方面就差了一些。
Blackdiamond - Ultra Light Camalots (UL-C4)
這是BD 2016 的最新產品,將強度部分下降,但重量大幅減低25%,但缺點是沒有延伸扁帶的設計。
DMM - Dragon
品質上有一定的水準,高強度的設計,特徵的可延伸織帶,在使用上有一定的便利性,而且有整體的優勢,缺點是可適用範圍一般,重量較重,而且價錢相當不親民。
Metolious Ultralight Master Cam
有著完整的使用範圍,重量相當輕,但在強度上較目前的產品都較低,價錢相當有競爭性。
Wildcountry - New Friends
身為Cam的始祖,在技術開發上當然有一定的優勢,最新的產品不但減重,有延伸織帶的設計,但缺點是使用範圍一般,跟DMM 一樣英國製造,所以價錢也是偏高。
應該選擇哪一個型號?
Cam 的選擇就像是買車一樣,並沒有絕對的好壞,必須由應用的情況來做決定,一般來說,技術登山,重量會是蠻大的考慮,而攀岩的話,就要看攀登及使用習慣,有人偏好耐用,
有人偏好輕量,也有人喜歡好的質感,但只要找到適合你的Cam,就是好的"朋友(Friends)" !
在Cam的選擇上,各家都有著重的項目,各型號的優缺點大致分析如下:
Blackdiamond - Camalots (C4)
目前最普及的型號之一,價錢與型能比相當高,與同期的產品相比,雙軸的設計使得可使用的岩隙範圍較大,缺點就是重量較重,而且沒有延伸扁帶的功能。
Blackdiamond - Camalots X4 (X4)
就是針對小岩隙所出的產品,與 Metolious 的 Ultra Light Master Cam 相當,但重量方面就差了一些。
Blackdiamond - Ultra Light Camalots (UL-C4)
這是BD 2016 的最新產品,將強度部分下降,但重量大幅減低25%,但缺點是沒有延伸扁帶的設計。
DMM - Dragon
品質上有一定的水準,高強度的設計,特徵的可延伸織帶,在使用上有一定的便利性,而且有整體的優勢,缺點是可適用範圍一般,重量較重,而且價錢相當不親民。
Metolious Ultralight Master Cam
有著完整的使用範圍,重量相當輕,但在強度上較目前的產品都較低,價錢相當有競爭性。
Wildcountry - New Friends
身為Cam的始祖,在技術開發上當然有一定的優勢,最新的產品不但減重,有延伸織帶的設計,但缺點是使用範圍一般,跟DMM 一樣英國製造,所以價錢也是偏高。
應該選擇哪一個型號?
Cam 的選擇就像是買車一樣,並沒有絕對的好壞,必須由應用的情況來做決定,一般來說,技術登山,重量會是蠻大的考慮,而攀岩的話,就要看攀登及使用習慣,有人偏好耐用,
有人偏好輕量,也有人喜歡好的質感,但只要找到適合你的Cam,就是好的"朋友(Friends)" !