2016 常見自動岩械(Cam) 比較


Cam 自動岩械,也就是一般俗稱的Friends,應該算是岩械選擇上比較複雜的一部分,這裡選擇了幾組常見的牌子和型號來進行比較,這裡主要是比較一些客觀數據,另外還有一些主觀數據,例如製作品質、品牌喜好,這裡不多做比較。

主要要評價的項目有幾項
  • 強度 (Strength)
  • 操作範圍下限 (Range Min)
  • 操作範圍上限 (Range Max)
  • 重量 (Weight)
  • 單位操作範圍的重量 (unit weight)
進行比較的型號及原始產品連結如下:

Brandsizestrength(kN)Range MinRange MaxRange (mm)weight (g)unit weight (g/mm)
BD - C431450.787.937.22015.4
BD - C421437.264.927.71555.6
BD - C441466.0114.748.72895.9
BD - C411430.252.121.91366.2
BD - C40.751423.941.217.31196.9
BD - C40.51219.633.513.9997.1
BD - C40.41015.526.711.2837.4
BD - C40.3813.823.49.6757.8
BD - UL C431250.787.937.21674.5
BD - UL C421237.264.927.71264.5
BD - UL C411230.252.121.91014.6
BD - UL C441266.0114.748.72254.6
BD - UL C40.751023.941.217.3895.1
BD - UL C40.51019.633.513.9745.3
BD - UL C40.4815.526.711.2615.4
BD - X40.75924.041.217.21126.5
BD - X40.5919.833.713.9916.5
BD - X40.4915.526.611.1827.4
BD - X40.269.916.56.6548.2
BD - X40.3812.421.28.8758.5
BD - X40.158.413.85.4519.4
DMM - Dragon41438.064.026.01545.9
DMM - Dragon51450.085.035.02085.9
DMM - Dragon31429.050.021.01286.1
DMM - Dragon61468.0114.046.02996.5
DMM - Dragon21424.041.017.01176.9
DMM - Dragon11420.033.013.01037.9
DMM - Dragon*001013.021.08.0759.4
DMM - Dragon01416.025.09.0859.4
Metolious- UL Master Cam81048.571.523.01295.6
Metolious- UL Master Cam61032.548.015.5966.2
Metolious- UL Master Cam71040.057.517.51126.4
Metolious- UL Master Cam51028.039.511.5857.4
Metolious- UL Master Cam41023.533.510.0757.5
Metolious- UL Master Cam21015.522.57.0557.9
Metolious- UL Master Cam31018.526.58.0658.1
Metolious- UL Master Cam0510.015.05.0459.0
Metolious- UL Master Cam1812.518.05.5529.5
Metolious- UL Master Cam*0058.512.03.54512.9
WC-New Friends21241.569.327.81425.1
WC-New Friends31252.78835.31925.4
WC-New Friends11231.753.621.91235.6
WC-New Friends41266.8112.145.32605.7
WC-New Friends0.751225.84317.21025.9
WC-New Friends0.51220.634.513.9886.3

強度 (Strength)

從今年開始,很多廠商已經將最大強度下降,由於大量的分析實驗,發現實際上在墜落的強度不需要這麼高。一般來說,強度會跟耐用性有正相關,但跟重量成負相關。

下表是依照強度來排序,Black Diamond 今年推出了輕量的C4系列,強度的部份就下降2kN
,而Wildcountry 也有這樣的趨勢,不過DMM還是強打高強度的部份。


Brandsizestrength(kN)Range MinRange MaxRange (mm)weightunit weight (g/mm)
BD - C431450.787.937.22015.4
BD - C421437.264.927.71555.6
BD - C441466.0114.748.72895.9
BD - C411430.252.121.91366.2
BD - C40.751423.941.217.31196.9
DMM - Dragon41438.064.026.01545.9
DMM - Dragon51450.085.035.02085.9
DMM - Dragon31429.050.021.01286.1
DMM - Dragon61468.0114.046.02996.5
DMM - Dragon21424.041.017.01176.9
DMM - Dragon11420.033.013.01037.9
DMM - Dragon01416.025.09.0859.4
BD - C40.51219.633.513.9997.1
BD - UL C431250.787.937.21674.5
BD - UL C421237.264.927.71264.5
BD - UL C411230.252.121.91014.6
BD - UL C441266.0114.748.72254.6
WC-New Friends21241.569.327.81425.1
WC-New Friends31252.78835.31925.4
WC-New Friends11231.753.621.91235.6
WC-New Friends41266.8112.145.32605.7
WC-New Friends0.751225.84317.21025.9
WC-New Friends0.51220.634.513.9886.3
BD - C40.41015.526.711.2837.4
BD - UL C40.751023.941.217.3895.1
BD - UL C40.51019.633.513.9745.3
DMM - Dragon*001013.021.08.0759.4
Metolious- UL Master Cam81048.571.523.01295.6
Metolious- UL Master Cam61032.548.015.5966.2
Metolious- UL Master Cam71040.057.517.51126.4
Metolious- UL Master Cam51028.039.511.5857.4
Metolious- UL Master Cam41023.533.510.0757.5
Metolious- UL Master Cam21015.522.57.0557.9
Metolious- UL Master Cam31018.526.58.0658.1
BD - X40.75924.041.217.21126.5
BD - X40.5919.833.713.9916.5
BD - X40.4915.526.611.1827.4
BD - C40.3813.823.49.6757.8
BD - UL C40.4815.526.711.2615.4
BD - X40.3812.421.28.8758.5
Metolious- UL Master Cam1812.518.05.5529.5
BD - X40.269.916.56.6548.2
BD - X40.158.413.85.4519.4
Metolious- UL Master Cam0510.015.05.0459.0
Metolious- UL Master Cam*0058.512.03.54512.9


操作範圍下限 (Range Min.)

這部份主要是針對小的Cam來做比較,越小的排序會在前面,可以明顯發現,BD - X4 和 Metolious - Master Cam 都有針對這部份做開發,要做到比較小的操作下限,必須要採用單軸結構,因此即使是以雙軸為主打的BD,在小範圍的部份也需要改成使用單軸的架構。


Brandsizestrength(kN)Range MinRange MaxRange (mm)weightunit weight (g/mm)
BD - X40.158.413.85.4519.4
Metolious- UL Master Cam*0058.512.03.54512.9
BD - X40.269.916.56.6548.2
Metolious- UL Master Cam0510.015.05.0459.0
BD - X40.3812.421.28.8758.5
Metolious- UL Master Cam1812.518.05.5529.5
DMM - Dragon*001013.021.08.0759.4
BD - C40.3813.823.49.6757.8
BD - C40.41015.526.711.2837.4
Metolious- UL Master Cam21015.522.57.0557.9
BD - X40.4915.526.611.1827.4
BD - UL C40.4815.526.711.2615.4
DMM - Dragon01416.025.09.0859.4
Metolious- UL Master Cam31018.526.58.0658.1
BD - C40.51219.633.513.9997.1
BD - UL C40.51019.633.513.9745.3
BD - X40.5919.833.713.9916.5
DMM - Dragon11420.033.013.01037.9
WC-New Friends0.51220.634.513.9886.3
Metolious- UL Master Cam41023.533.510.0757.5
BD - C40.751423.941.217.31196.9
BD - UL C40.751023.941.217.3895.1
DMM - Dragon21424.041.017.01176.9
BD - X40.75924.041.217.21126.5
WC-New Friends0.751225.84317.21025.9
Metolious- UL Master Cam51028.039.511.5857.4
DMM - Dragon31429.050.021.01286.1
BD - C411430.252.121.91366.2
BD - UL C411230.252.121.91014.6
WC-New Friends11231.753.621.91235.6
Metolious- UL Master Cam61032.548.015.5966.2
BD - C421437.264.927.71555.6
BD - UL C421237.264.927.71264.5
DMM - Dragon41438.064.026.01545.9
Metolious- UL Master Cam71040.057.517.51126.4
WC-New Friends21241.569.327.81425.1
Metolious- UL Master Cam81048.571.523.01295.6
DMM - Dragon51450.085.035.02085.9
BD - C431450.787.937.22015.4
BD - UL C431250.787.937.21674.5
WC-New Friends31252.78835.31925.4
BD - C441466.0114.748.72895.9
BD - UL C441266.0114.748.72254.6
WC-New Friends41266.8112.145.32605.7
DMM - Dragon61468.0114.046.02996.5


操作範圍上限 (Range Max.)

這個部分要比較的就是比較大支的型號,這裡比較的其實應該是重量的部份,在大操作上限的型號,對整體重量的影響相當大,以BD-C4與BD-UL C4同一個大小重量就差了64g,整整就差了一支小號的Cam!


Brandsizestrength(kN)Range MinRange MaxRange (mm)weightunit weight (g/mm)
BD - C441466.0114.748.72895.9
BD - UL C441266.0114.748.72254.6
DMM - Dragon61468.0114.046.02996.5
WC-New Friends41266.8112.145.32605.7
WC-New Friends31252.78835.31925.4
BD - C431450.787.937.22015.4
BD - UL C431250.787.937.21674.5
DMM - Dragon51450.085.035.02085.9
Metolious- UL Master Cam81048.571.523.01295.6
WC-New Friends21241.569.327.81425.1
BD - C421437.264.927.71555.6
BD - UL C421237.264.927.71264.5
DMM - Dragon41438.064.026.01545.9
Metolious- UL Master Cam71040.057.517.51126.4
WC-New Friends11231.753.621.91235.6
BD - C411430.252.121.91366.2
BD - UL C411230.252.121.91014.6
DMM - Dragon31429.050.021.01286.1
Metolious- UL Master Cam61032.548.015.5966.2
WC-New Friends0.751225.84317.21025.9
BD - C40.751423.941.217.31196.9
BD - UL C40.751023.941.217.3895.1
BD - X40.75924.041.217.21126.5
DMM - Dragon21424.041.017.01176.9
Metolious- UL Master Cam51028.039.511.5857.4
WC-New Friends0.51220.634.513.9886.3
BD - X40.5919.833.713.9916.5
BD - C40.51219.633.513.9997.1
BD - UL C40.51019.633.513.9745.3
Metolious- UL Master Cam41023.533.510.0757.5
DMM - Dragon11420.033.013.01037.9
BD - C40.41015.526.711.2837.4
BD - UL C40.4815.526.711.2615.4
BD - X40.4915.526.611.1827.4
Metolious- UL Master Cam31018.526.58.0658.1
DMM - Dragon01416.025.09.0859.4
BD - C40.3813.823.49.6757.8
Metolious- UL Master Cam21015.522.57.0557.9
BD - X40.3812.421.28.8758.5
DMM - Dragon*001013.021.08.0759.4
Metolious- UL Master Cam1812.518.05.5529.5
BD - X40.269.916.56.6548.2
Metolious- UL Master Cam0510.015.05.0459.0
BD - X40.158.413.85.4519.4
Metolious- UL Master Cam*0058.512.03.54512.9

重量(Weight)

重量是今年新設計上很重要的指標,各家都在減重上做了很大的努力,目前看來BD的UL - C4 在重量上有很大的領先。雖然在單純本身的重量上,DMM和WC較占下風,但今年有伸長織帶的設計,可以直接少帶一條繩環或是快扣,如果是將這一部分考慮進去,可延長織帶的型號,在整體重量上就有相當的競爭性。

另一個在重量上作手腳的就是將鋼纜的部分換成Dyneema,雖然說Dyneema 在強度上甚至是比鋼纜來的高,但在耐用性上,即使原廠也會表示沒有鋼纜來的耐用,不過在重量及柔軟性上,有相當大的優勢。

Brandsizestrength(kN)Range MinRange MaxRange (mm)weightunit weight (g/mm)
DMM - Dragon61468.0114.046.02996.5
BD - C441466.0114.748.72895.9
WC-New Friends41266.8112.145.32605.7
BD - UL C441266.0114.748.72254.6
DMM - Dragon51450.085.035.02085.9
BD - C431450.787.937.22015.4
WC-New Friends31252.78835.31925.4
BD - UL C431250.787.937.21674.5
BD - C421437.264.927.71555.6
DMM - Dragon41438.064.026.01545.9
WC-New Friends21241.569.327.81425.1
BD - C411430.252.121.91366.2
Metolious- UL Master Cam81048.571.523.01295.6
DMM - Dragon31429.050.021.01286.1
BD - UL C421237.264.927.71264.5
WC-New Friends11231.753.621.91235.6
BD - C40.751423.941.217.31196.9
DMM - Dragon21424.041.017.01176.9
Metolious- UL Master Cam71040.057.517.51126.4
BD - X40.75924.041.217.21126.5
DMM - Dragon11420.033.013.01037.9
WC-New Friends0.751225.84317.21025.9
BD - UL C411230.252.121.91014.6
BD - C40.51219.633.513.9997.1
Metolious- UL Master Cam61032.548.015.5966.2
BD - X40.5919.833.713.9916.5
BD - UL C40.751023.941.217.3895.1
WC-New Friends0.51220.634.513.9886.3
Metolious- UL Master Cam51028.039.511.5857.4
DMM - Dragon01416.025.09.0859.4
BD - C40.41015.526.711.2837.4
BD - X40.4915.526.611.1827.4
Metolious- UL Master Cam41023.533.510.0757.5
BD - C40.3813.823.49.6757.8
BD - X40.3812.421.28.8758.5
DMM - Dragon*001013.021.08.0759.4
BD - UL C40.51019.633.513.9745.3
Metolious- UL Master Cam31018.526.58.0658.1
BD - UL C40.4815.526.711.2615.4
Metolious- UL Master Cam21015.522.57.0557.9
BD - X40.269.916.56.6548.2
Metolious- UL Master Cam1812.518.05.5529.5
BD - X40.158.413.85.4519.4
Metolious- UL Master Cam0510.015.05.0459.0
Metolious- UL Master Cam*0058.512.03.54512.9

單位操作範圍的重量 (unit weight)

這是我用來判斷的指標,也就是操作一樣的範圍,需要多少的重量,這個部分是整體效率的差異,但事實上對攀岩其實還好,但對技術登山是很重要的指標。這裡的數值越小越好,也就每mm操作範圍,所需要的重量越低。

由表中排序可以看出來BD-UL C4 完勝!相較起來DMM在這方面就比較吃虧。但事實上,這樣的結論是有點不公平的,因為DMM有延伸織帶的設計,在最佳的條件下可以少帶一支快扣,如果以這樣來說的話,DMM 和 Wildcountry 在整體重量上,還是有一定的優勢。


Brandsizestrength(kN)Range MinRange MaxRange (mm)weightunit weight (g/mm)
BD - UL C431250.787.937.21674.5
BD - UL C421237.264.927.71264.5
BD - UL C411230.252.121.91014.6
BD - UL C441266.0114.748.72254.6
WC-New Friends21241.569.327.81425.1
BD - UL C40.751023.941.217.3895.1
BD - UL C40.51019.633.513.9745.3
BD - C431450.787.937.22015.4
WC-New Friends31252.78835.31925.4
BD - UL C40.4815.526.711.2615.4
BD - C421437.264.927.71555.6
Metolious- UL Master Cam81048.571.523.01295.6
WC-New Friends11231.753.621.91235.6
WC-New Friends41266.8112.145.32605.7
DMM - Dragon41438.064.026.01545.9
WC-New Friends0.751225.84317.21025.9
BD - C441466.0114.748.72895.9
DMM - Dragon51450.085.035.02085.9
DMM - Dragon31429.050.021.01286.1
Metolious- UL Master Cam61032.548.015.5966.2
BD - C411430.252.121.91366.2
WC-New Friends0.51220.634.513.9886.3
Metolious- UL Master Cam71040.057.517.51126.4
DMM - Dragon61468.0114.046.02996.5
BD - X40.75924.041.217.21126.5
BD - X40.5919.833.713.9916.5
BD - C40.751423.941.217.31196.9
DMM - Dragon21424.041.017.01176.9
BD - C40.51219.633.513.9997.1
BD - X40.4915.526.611.1827.4
Metolious- UL Master Cam51028.039.511.5857.4
BD - C40.41015.526.711.2837.4
Metolious- UL Master Cam41023.533.510.0757.5
BD - C40.3813.823.49.6757.8
Metolious- UL Master Cam21015.522.57.0557.9
DMM - Dragon11420.033.013.01037.9
Metolious- UL Master Cam31018.526.58.0658.1
BD - X40.269.916.56.6548.2
BD - X40.3812.421.28.8758.5
Metolious- UL Master Cam0510.015.05.0459.0
DMM - Dragon*001013.021.08.0759.4
DMM - Dragon01416.025.09.0859.4
BD - X40.158.413.85.4519.4
Metolious- UL Master Cam1812.518.05.5529.5
Metolious- UL Master Cam*0058.512.03.54512.9

總結 (Summary)

在Cam的選擇上,各家都有著重的項目,各型號的優缺點大致分析如下:

Blackdiamond - Camalots (C4)

目前最普及的型號之一,價錢與型能比相當高,與同期的產品相比,雙軸的設計使得可使用的岩隙範圍較大,缺點就是重量較重,而且沒有延伸扁帶的功能。

Blackdiamond - Camalots X4 (X4)

就是針對小岩隙所出的產品,與 Metolious 的 Ultra Light Master Cam 相當,但重量方面就差了一些。

Blackdiamond - Ultra Light Camalots (UL-C4) 

這是BD 2016 的最新產品,將強度部分下降,但重量大幅減低25%,但缺點是沒有延伸扁帶的設計。

DMM - Dragon

品質上有一定的水準,高強度的設計,特徵的可延伸織帶,在使用上有一定的便利性,而且有整體的優勢,缺點是可適用範圍一般,重量較重,而且價錢相當不親民。

Metolious Ultralight Master Cam

有著完整的使用範圍,重量相當輕,但在強度上較目前的產品都較低,價錢相當有競爭性。

Wildcountry - New Friends

身為Cam的始祖,在技術開發上當然有一定的優勢,最新的產品不但減重,有延伸織帶的設計,但缺點是使用範圍一般,跟DMM 一樣英國製造,所以價錢也是偏高。


應該選擇哪一個型號?

Cam 的選擇就像是買車一樣,並沒有絕對的好壞,必須由應用的情況來做決定,一般來說,技術登山,重量會是蠻大的考慮,而攀岩的話,就要看攀登及使用習慣,有人偏好耐用,
有人偏好輕量,也有人喜歡好的質感,但只要找到適合你的Cam,就是好的"朋友(Friends)" !